Monday, December 27, 2010

Trip to Portugal Day 3 (1) (Lisbon)

今日はまず朝ごはんを食べに Pastéis de Belém へ。私達のホテルからはまずメトロの緑路線終点の Caise do Sodré まで行き、そこから路面電車15番に乗り換えて Mosteiro dos Jerónimos で降りるとすぐのところにあります。ここは世界遺産のジェロニモス修道院、ベレンの塔発見のモニュメントのある観光地でもあります (この日は月曜日だったため、どこも閉まっていましたが)。

Today, to have some breakfast, we went to Pastéis de Belém.  From our hotel, we took the metro (green line) to Caise do Sodré, then transfered to the tram #15 and got off at Mosteiro dos Jerónimos.  The shop is located just a few steps from the Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos), which is classified as a World Heritage Site togetehr with nearby Belém Tower (although these were closed because it was Monday).
Pastéis de Belém は pastel de nata (単数形;複数形は pastéis de nata) 発祥の店で、1837年創業の老舗店です。今でも当時のジェロニモス修道院の修道女が作っていたレシピを忠実に守っているのだそう。この時はまだ朝早く、月曜日 (修道院、ベレンの塔などの閉館日) で観光客が少なかったので店内はすいていました。

Pastéis de Belém was the first place selling the original pastel de nata (singular; plural: pastéis de nata), created before the 18th century by Catholic nuns at theJerónimos Monastery.  They still keep the same recipe.  When we went there, it was still early in the morning and also it was Monday (the monestary and the tower are closed on Mondays) and thus it was not crowded.

There were many other sweets in the showcase.

These are similar to muffins, but made of rice.

We got inside the shop by passing the counter.

Inside is very spacious, and the walls are decorated with Azulejo.

I guess when it is very busy this room would be used but at this time, it was closed.
窓からはキッチンの様子を見ることができます。すごい数の pastéis de nata が焼かれていました。

From the window in the room, we could see the kitchen where so many pastéis de nata were being baked.

We ordered coffee and,
そしてお待ちかね pastéis de nata!各テーブルには粉砂糖とシナモンの容器が置いてあるのでお好みで楽しめます (私達は何もかけませんでしたが)。出来立てほやほや、まだほのかに温かくて、皮がぱりっぱりで噂通りすご~くおいしいです。昨日の夜食べたのもおいしいと思ったのですがやっぱりこっちのほうがおいしい!

Of course pastéis de nata.  On each table were containers of powder sugar and cinnamon to enjoy different flavors (but we didn't add anything).  These were just out of the oven and still warm, but the skin was very very crispy and soooo good.  I can eat 10 of them!  I thought the ones we ate last night were good, but it was better here.
裏はこんな風になっています。生地が何層にもなっていて、それが皮がぱりぱりの秘訣? 有名店だし、観光客しか来ないのかと思っていたら地元の人たちも次から次へとやってきてこれを食べていました。

This is the view of the bottom part.  There were many layers of skins, which may be the reason for its crispiness.  Since this shop is very famous and touristy, I thought their customers were only tourists.  But actually many local people were here, enjoying pastéis de nata.

We ordered several more to go.  They came with the powder sugar and cinnamon packs.
その上、干し鱈の塩漬け (バカリャオ) のコロッケも購入。干し鱈大好き (ちょっとかすかすなところが好きなんです) なので、これも購入。歩きながら食べました。鱈がたくさん入っていてこれもなかなかいけます。

In addition, we ordered salted cod (baccalau) fritters to go as well (I LOVE salted cod).  We ate them while walking.  There were lots of cod inside and they were good, too!

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